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Robert Parker - Wine Advocate
Nearly perfect, one of the most prodigious dry white
wines I have ever tasted is the 2003 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree.
A 669-case cuvee fashioned from yields of 10 hectoliters per hectare,
it offers aromas and flavors beyond anything I have previously tasted
in a dry white. It tastes like a liqueur of licorice intermixed
with a liqueur of honeysuckle, quince, and rocks. Opulent, viscous,
and full-bodied, at first glance it is seemingly fragile and over
the top, but it boasts extraordinary freshness and liveliness as
well as monster concentration and a finish that lasts over 60 seconds.
I suspect it will drink beautifully for 3-4 years, then go into
a funky stage, and re-emerge two decades later. It may be a 100-year
wine ... but who knows? Without question, it is a tour de force
in winemaking.
Drink '04 - '54.
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