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Antonio Galloni - Wine Advocate
Conterno-Fantino's 2004 Barolo Vigna del Gris offers
an enticing array of floral aromatics that lead to sensations of
candied cherries, small red fruits, spices and marzipan. With air,
this sensual, feminine Barolo opens to reveal notable inner perfume
and superb length. As is usually the case, the wine doesn-t quite
have the stuffing to balance its tannins and it does dry out just
a bit on the finish, but it is nevertheless a gorgeous, gorgeous
wine. In 2004 Vigna del Gris contains fruit from both old vines
and a recently re-planted section of the vineyard.
Anticipated maturity: '11 - '19.
I have long enjoyed the Conterno-Fantino Barolos but in recent years
Claudio Conterno and Guido Fantino have taken their wines to an
entirely new level. These Barolos can often be massively structured
and difficult to evaluate at an early stage yet the 2004s have incredibly
sweet, ripe tannins that makes them a pure joy to taste. Simply
put, this is a superb collection of 2004 Barolos. -We harvested
most of our fruit on October 5 and 6,- says Guido Fantino. -We did
6-8 days of fermentation after which the wines went into French
oak (100% new). The malos were very long and weren-t completely
finished until January. |